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PUTTING ON A GOOD FACE – THE CHEMISTRY OF COSMETICS
3 November 2004

The pursuit of beauty has spawned a massive industry founded on the science of chemistry – the cosmetics industry. The Australian Academy of Science's new Nova: Science in the news topic has the latest information at www.science.org.au/nova.

Cosmetics are big business because most of us – males and females – care about our appearance. However, it is wise to remember that cosmetics can be complex combinations of chemicals. Reading the label and understanding which ingredients are used in a product are helpful when putting on your best face.

Most cosmetics contain a combination of at least some of the following ingredients: water, emulsifier, preservative, thickener, colour, fragrance and pH stabilisers. Each ingredient is added because it has useful chemical properties. For example, emulsifiers stop the oil and water phases of the cosmetic product from separating, and pH stabilisers adjust the pH so the product doesn't harm your skin.

Unfortunately, the ingredients in cosmetics can have unintended side effects. Specific ingredients, such as added fragrances and preservatives, can cause allergic reactions and skin rashes. If you are allergic to a cosmetic product, it is important to determine which ingredients are causing the problem and avoid them by carefully reading product labels.

More serious side effects have been suggested for certain cosmetic ingredients. A recent study was published that linked breast cancer with deodorants. Parabens, a class of chemicals commonly used as preservatives in deodorants and antiperspirants, were found in breast cancer tissue. However, the study did not establish that parabens were the source of the cancer nor did it identify underarm cosmetics as the source of the chemicals.

Another study found that many cosmetics and toiletries used worldwide, contained chemicals that were either known cancer-causing agents or were untested for their effect on human health.

More research into the safety of cosmetic chemicals is needed if we are to avoid sacrificing our health in the pursuit of beauty.

More information is on the Australian Academy of Science's Nova: Science in the news website at www.science.org.au/nova. The topic also includes a glossary; student activities; further reading; and annotated links to relevant websites.

The principal sponsor of Nova: Science in the news is the Commonwealth Bank Foundation (www.commbank.com.au/foundation).